Choice Tables | LondonReminders of Paris in London’s Truly English Food
By HENRY SHUKMAN
WHAT are great restaurants for? At worst, they’re a seated passeggiata, where the in-crowd asserts its in-ness, the would-bes try to, and the innocent come to gawp and glut. At best, they nourish the soul. Ideally, they start doing it once you walk through the door and continue long after you’ve left. More
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